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Summary:The science of surfing: wave physics and space-age materials being used in building surf-boards. Interviewees include surfers Ken Bradshaw,Mark Fog and professional Ted Deerhurst; surfer-hydrodynamicist Prof Scott Jenkins; oceanographer and surfer Prof Rick Grigg; and materials scientist Chuck Burns.
Description:THE SCIENCE OF SURFING. LOOKS AT WAVE PHYSICS IN WHICH THE SHAPE AND DEPTH OF THE BAY PLAYS A KEY ROLE IN DETERMINING THE SHAPE OF THE WAVE. ALSO SHOWS HOW A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF PHYSICS IS ALLOWING NEW BOARDS TO BE DESIGNED.